Food and wine of Valle Maira
Ravioles, alpine cheeses, Slow Food Presidia and a story of anchovies that travelled from the sea all the way up here: the kitchen of an Occitan valley.
Mountain cooking, without affectation
The cooking of Valle Maira comes from real ingredients and from necessity: in the mountains you cooked with what you had. Potatoes, alpine cheeses, flours, herbs and preserves still make up the valley's repertoire, along with cured meats and Slow Food Presidia produce.
It is a cuisine tied to the work of local producers and to the rhythm of the seasons: what you find on the table in autumn is not what you find in June.
Ravioles
Ravioles are the defining dish of Valle Maira and the Occitan valleys: dumplings of potato and toma, the local mountain cheese. Despite the name they are not filled ravioli — the cheese is in the dough itself.
They are traditionally served with melted butter and more cheese. This is the dish to order if you want to understand the valley's cooking in a single mouthful.
Toma and the high pastures
Toma is a Piedmontese mountain cheese, also made in the high pastures of Valle Maira. It is eaten on its own, aged differently by each producer, and it is the ingredient that gives ravioles their character.
Much of the valley's mountain farming economy turns around toma: it is the high pastures that keep the grazing alive, and with it the open landscape and the high hamlets.
Anchovies and the acciugai
That an Alpine valley should talk about anchovies is surprising — and that is exactly the interesting part. Anchovies are not a mountain product: they arrived up here through trade.
Valle Maira sent out the acciugai, itinerant sellers who travelled across Piedmont and beyond carrying salt-preserved fish. A trade of seasonal emigration, like that of the cavié of Elva, which left a lasting mark on the local kitchen.
Where to taste the valley
Two addresses, two different ways of telling the same territory:
At the osteria la tàula de m'aura of the albergo diffuso La Caso d'Elva, at 1,703 metres, traditional Piedmontese cooking starts from Slow Food Presidia ingredients and selected local produce.
At Ristorante Al Bial, in Macra, the same raw materials are given a fine-dining, seasonal reading, with a tasting menu, a vegetarian menu and a wine list.
Food and wine of Valle Maira: FAQ
What are the typical dishes of Valle Maira?
Ravioles (potato and toma dumplings), alpine cheeses such as toma, mountain cured meats and the anchovies tied to the valley's tradition of itinerant sellers. Many products belong to the Slow Food Presidia.
What are ravioles?
Dumplings typical of Valle Maira and the Occitan valleys, made with potato and toma. They are not filled ravioli: the cheese is in the dough. Usually served with melted butter and cheese.
What is toma?
A Piedmontese mountain cheese, also made in the high pastures of Valle Maira. It is an ingredient in ravioles and is eaten on its own, aged differently by each producer.
Why are anchovies associated with Valle Maira?
Not because they are a mountain product, but because of trade: the valley sent out the acciugai, itinerant sellers who travelled across Piedmont and beyond. From that tradition anchovies entered the local kitchen.
Where can you eat typical dishes in Valle Maira?
At the osteria la tàula de m'aura of La Caso d'Elva in Elva, with Slow Food Presidia ingredients, and at Ristorante Al Bial in Macra, with seasonal Piedmontese cooking, a tasting menu and a vegetarian menu.
Stay where the food is good
The albergo diffuso at Elva has its osteria in-house; from San Damiano Macra the valley's tables are a short drive away.